Home | Navigation A/V Forum | Post New Message | Search | Contact Moderator | Sign In  












Click to make a donation to support BimmerBoard
Related Links
BMW CCA
Indy Mechanics
E38.org Wiki
E38.org
Yahoo BMW Nav Group
Frappr Map
Specialty Forums
IBUS Forum
Garage Forum
Navigation A/V
Bluetooth
For Sale
Want To Buy
Off-Topic
Detailing
///M
Kill Stories
Group Buys
Vanos Forum
Meet & Greet
TEST FORUM

Forums for Current Model BMW's
1 Series E81
3 Series E90
5 Series E60
6 Series E63/E64
7 Series E65/E66
7 Series F01/02 NEW
X3 E83
X5 E70
X6 E71
Z4 E85
MINI Cooper

Forums for Past Model BMW's
2002
3 Series E21
3 Series E30
3 Series E36
3 Series E46
5 Series E12
5 Series E28
5 Series E34
5 Series E39
6 Series E24
7 Series E23
7 Series E32
7 Series E38
8 Series E31
X5 E53
Z3
Z8 E52
CS E9
Senior Six E3

Model-specific Lounges
E32 Lounge
E38 Lounge

Regional Forums
Australia
Canada
United Kingdom
Netherlands

Forums for Local BMW Car Clubs
Dallas
Southern California
Minneapolis
Atlanta


Click here to advertise on BimmerBoard.com




Return to the forum index Navigation A/V Forum


Subject: That is very strange... I just repeated your test on my car with similar results
Author: Brian (moderator) : member since January, 2005 : 8582 posts
Posted on: 2009-01-14 12:53:05      
Bookmark and Share

Initially, I thought that your battery could still be the problem. According to one of Q's posts, a good, fully charged battery ought to register >12.6V. So, when I read that yours started at 12.3 and then dropped to 11.8 with the lights on, I thought that your battery might have an unusually high internal resistance and be on its way out.

So, I went out and repeated your test on my car. The electronics are enough different that a direct comparison between our cars is probably not relevant. My car has the later water cooled alternator and it has the dual batteries. However, the profile looked generally the same.

It is about 40 degrees out, and my car has been sitting since I drove it in to work this morning. I replaced my ignition switch last month, and my batteries are both only about 18 months old. I do not have any odd electrical symptoms. So theoretically, my electronics are close to ideal.

This is what I got...
11.5V Ignition switch in position 1, lights off
11.5V Ignition switch in position 1, lights on
11.1V Ignition switch in position 2, lights off
10.7V Ignition switch in position 2, lights on
13.8V Engine running, lights off
12.6V and rise back up to 13.6V Engine running, lights on

So, my car pretty much demonstrated the same battery behavior as yours. In fact, mine might even suggest that I have a bad battery.

Maybe you have a bad light control module or general module. The strange lighting symtpoms point to the LKM. On the other hand, the central locking and radio volume could point to the GM. It is an odd one.

Another possible component is the "Unloader Relay." That is located in the trunk, and it switches many of the electronics on. That can also cause some odd A/V symptoms, but I don't think it could cause the lighting symptoms.

After all this, I still suspect your battery. Is there any way that you could test another battery in your car? Do you have another car (or a friend's car) that could temporarily donate its battery to your car for the purposes of science?

Brian's 2000 E38 750iL



The Navigation A/V Forum | Message Thread:


The Navigation A/V Forum requires users to register before posting new messages.

Click Here to Sign In / Register


Make a donation to support BimmerBoard


Home | Privacy Policy | Terms of Service | Glossary | Advertising

Questions, comments, problems, please email webmaster@bimmerboard.com

©Copyright 2003-2009 BimmerBoard, LLC, All Rights Reserved.
No content from this web site may be reproduced or copied in any
form without the express written consent of BimmerBoard, LLC.


The BMW name and logos are registered trademarks of BMW AG
and BMW of North America, LLC.