Subject: Re: 528 repaired in Kazakhstan Author: rajaieq as Rajaie (moderator) : 235 posts Posted on: 2008-10-22 21:34:20

Thanks for the feedback. Congrats on the repair and the resolution of your cold weather cold start idle jolts and possible stall.

The fact that you didn’t receive significant performance improvements after the repair and that your car is experiencing cold start vibrations means you have a problem. Here are some of the likely suspects.
Read the fault codes to see if there are any.
Have your mechanic read the long term fuel trim values. If they are greater than +/- 3% then you likely have an air/fuel mix problem.
Remove your air intake boots. Check the air boot branch to the ICV (idle control valve). This gets cracks in the accordion valleys. Replace the boot.
Remove the ICV and clean it. Spray it with brake cleaner and wipe off the gunk.
Clean the MAF sensor with CRC MAF spray cleaner. Or if not available, use electronic contact spray cleaner, but allow the MAF to fully dry. Spray the MAF lightly, do not power wash.
Remove the DISA valve, 4” high x 6” wide black box at the side of the intake manifold, adjacent to the MAF. Check that the flap turns with resistance and springs back when release. Replace the O-ring at the base. Pre 01 cars have an O-ring. 01+ cars have a gasket built into the DISA. With the 01+ wrap the gasket with one layer of electrical tape half width to thicken the gasket and create a better fit/seal.
The CVV (crankcase vent valve) and 4 associated hoses are a very common cause of vacuum leak after 70k miles. Remove the intake side engine cover. A hose comes off the valve cover front corner and goes down under the intake manifold to the CVV. A hose comes up from the CVV through the intake manifold at the front and connects to another hose that runs to the rear of the manifold. Inspect these hoses for cracks. The last hose goes from the bottom of the CVV to the oil dipstick pipe. This often breaks just below the CVV connection.
The CVV repair is a bit sticky and is not documented. Remove the air filter box and air boots. The CVV is behind the throttle. You need to move the black electrical routing box to the rear. You'll need to disconnect the vanos electricals, thermostat, alternator, oil pressure sensor, etc cables to allow the box to move to rear. Once this happens you can remove 4 bolts to remove the throttle. You'll need to break the two top hoses connected to the CVV to get the CVV out. Don't break the hose connections at the intake manifold and valve cover. Press in the connector ring and wiggle off the connector. When putting in the new parts, you'll need to get the CVV in place before connecting the hoses to the CVV.
If none of this solves your problem then you might have a failing MAF. You can try disconnecting the MAF. If your problems completely resolve, then it might be a failing MAF sensor.

I hope this information is useful and helps you find your problem.
Other owners have indicated not receiving significant performance improvements after the vanos seals repair. This is almost always due to a problem with the engine. It is often a vacuum leak or MAF sensor failure.

Rajaie
528i 5sp 06/00

• 528 repaired in Kazakhstan - supercharged 2008-10-21 00:41:37 (163 views)
  • Re: 528 repaired in Kazakhstan - Rajaie 2008-10-22 21:34:20 (109 views)