Home | 3 Series E36 Forum | Post New Message | Search | Contact Moderator | Sign In  












Click to make a donation to support BimmerBoard
Related Links
BMW CCA
E38.org Wiki
Specialty Forums
Garage Forum
Navigation A/V
Bluetooth
For Sale
Off-Topic
Detailing
///M
Kill Stories
Group Buys
Vanos Forum
TEST FORUM

Forums for Current Model BMW's
1 Series E81
3 Series E90
5 Series E60
6 Series E63/E64
7 Series E65/E66
7 Series F01/02 NEW
X3 E83
X5 E70
X6 E71
Z4 E85
MINI Cooper

Forums for Past Model BMW's
2002
3 Series E21
3 Series E30
3 Series E36
3 Series E46
5 Series E12
5 Series E28
5 Series E34
5 Series E39
6 Series E24
7 Series E23
7 Series E32
7 Series E38
8 Series E31
X5 E53
Z3
Z8 E52
CS E9
Senior Six E3

Model-specific Lounges
E32 Lounge
E38 Lounge

Regional Forums
Australia
Canada
United Kingdom
Netherlands

Forums for Local BMW Car Clubs
Dallas
Southern California
Minneapolis
Atlanta






Return to the forum index 3 Series E36 Forum


Subject: clutch master cylinder replacement
Author: sean as hit the grill with :-) Sean : member since February, 2005 : 885 posts
Posted on: 2008-08-04 13:55:06

hey all anyone had to replace the clutch master cylinder in these cars. benntly says that from working inside the engine compartment you can get to the steel line running to the slave cylinder to disconnect the line from the master but I did not see a way to do this short of taking the brake master/booster and ABS out, do I really need to do all that just to get at that darn nut. I am open for suggestions on how to do it. Also before we go too far the symptom is that the clutch pedal will not return all the way up, the amount of travel from friction point to engaged remains the same but the distance from the friction point to the floorboard changes sometimes the friction point is the floor board. The only work around I have found it to put the car in neutral and slip my foot off the pedal with it fully depressed 3-5 times and the pedal feels great again. Also most of the time the pedal will correct itself (IE friction point will head towards the floorboard and then start moving away from the floorboard). sorry for the long post but the car has been a bear to work on the past 3 weekends. Minus the one connection I had the old master out with a new one ready to go but i could not find a way to get that nut off.




82 528e X 2 (US) one died in a accident the other was traded in with >400,000 miles
86 325 (US) 150,000 miles
87 325eS (US) 220,000 miles died saving my life someone tried to hit me head on
88 528e (US) x2 >200,000 and still going strong, the other >300,000 miles saved my sisters life, but gave its own (head on collison at 120 mph what an idiot, she was doing 55 in the other direction)
89 528i (US) 270,000 miles Gave up the ghost, only one I have seen not to make it to 300k before dying on its own (low compression in cyln 3-6 and no combustion in cyln 2 and broken intake rocker cyln 1 but, it still ran drove to dealer to trade in)
90 325iC (US) 140,000 miles
91 325iC (US) 190,000 miles saved my life but gave its own (T bone to drivers door at 45 mph)
94 325iC (US) 160,000 miles
98 750iL (US) 180,000 miles
01 325i (US) 30,000 miles
Now you know why I drive BMWs it is not about the money it is not about the glamor they save lives, they drive exceptionally well, and they last forever.



The 3 Series E36 Forum | Message Thread:


The 3 Series E36 Forum requires users to register before posting new messages.

Click Here to Sign In / Register


Bad Credit Loan | Loans | Blogging Forum | Myspace Layouts | Car Loan

Make a donation to support BimmerBoard


Home | Privacy Policy | Terms of Service | Glossary | Advertising

Questions, comments, problems, please email webmaster@bimmerboard.com

©Copyright 2003-2008 BimmerBoard, LLC, All Rights Reserved.
No content from this web site may be reproduced or copied in any
form without the express written consent of BimmerBoard, LLC.


The BMW name and logos are registered trademarks of BMW AG
and BMW of North America, LLC.