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Subject: They changed around 03/91 and nothing is discontinued
Author: kfister : member since May, 2007 : 1852 posts
Posted on: 2008-03-31 08:34:46

The spindle nut is no problem. When you are ready to open the spindle nut, mount the wheel without center cap and put the car on the ground.

The factory instructions show the hub being pulled off with a puller. It is a crappy photo, but seems to show the puller attached to the hub with wheel bolts, and central screw pressing against the spindle. SPX/OTC sells a slide hammer kit with axle flanges and press screw.

Some inner race may be left on the spindle after removal. This may be the most difficult part. The factory manual shows a puller being used, that looks like a large suspension arm puller. I would consider carefully grinding it away and then breaking it with a chisel. It will crack and fall off.

To get the hub on they show another screw press being used. It looks like a screw threads into the end of the spindle and uses a big nut/threaded collar to press the hub in. Whatever you do, bear against the inner race only when pressing the hub on.

If you want a reason to replace the bearing which is not giving you trouble, measure the thrust play at the wheel flange. There is no published spec for this in the front but this is where you will see wear. I have never found a used bearing to be as tight as a new one. I would do both sides if I could but I don't regard my car as a beater.

--
Ken Fister - Charlottesville, Virginia USA
97 328i, 95 540i, 97 Hino truck
bmwecu.org



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