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This message is marked as Important.
Subject: Some feedback & ideas...
Author: GlossHaus : 163 posts
Posted on: 2007-05-18 22:07:45

Edwin:

I am assuming you have some significant sand scratching (spider webs?) and as such you'll have to be a bit more aggressive in your approach to removing these blemishes. I have posted three pics below. If your scratching looks anything like these, you'll have to use some professional grade products, but the guesswork will be gone and you'l be able to KEEP your paint looking great for a long time. If your paint looks like any of these, I would also suggest that no amount of swirl remover will do the trick for you. It may hide the scratching for a short time because of its high pretroleum content which fills the grooves of the scratches, but they will still be there again when the swirl/wax content burns off again in a few weeks. The swirl is a very, very fine polish that just won't address the 1,000-1,500 grit scratches in your paint.

The first pic is of ZapperJoe's blue E38. The "after" pic is after the 1st application of the most aggressive product in my lineup. It was the only way to remove 95% of the scratches on Joe's paint/clearcoat. You'll see a few scratches left and those came out with a medium grade product. This pic has zero wax or swirl/glaze applied. IT is the "rough cut" as I refer to it.





The next two pics are much the same thing. Each vehicle had moderate to severe scratches, which over time totally obscures any kind of visual depth and gloss. The "before" pic in the bottom Chevy Pickup pic was pretty severe since I was standing directly in front of the tailgate when I took the pic. And you can barely make out my reflection.









I would also tell you that with the PC (porter cable right?) you don't have to worry about burning your paint. Also, it is true you are removing a very fine layer of clearcoat. However, the MOST I've ever removed in my experience (I've measured with a paint thickness guage) is between .25-.5 of one-thousandth's of an inch. And that was on a BADLY oxidized paint job. You certainly don't want to use an aggressive treatment more than a few times over the life of a car, but your paint/cleacoat thickness is in the 6 to 10 thousandths of an inch to start with, so don't worry. You perform the aggressive treatment once and then simple maintenace afterward.

So do this for me. Shoot me an email describing the equipment you have, especially your buffer and pads. It would be great to know the color, texture (rough to fine) of your pads and the products you are using now. I also need to know if you have access to a automotive paint supply store and whether they carry 3M or Meguiar's products. I'll send you back a list of stuff to buy and how to use it. Sound good? I'd send you some of my stuff (which is water-based and very effective), but we aren't set up for international shipping. So let's see what we can do for you via local sources.

Dave



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